If anyone asks, Sarajevo sure is swell

Bosnia is my número uno must-come-back-to spot from my Balkan tour. I closed with 2ish days in Sarajevo (not nearly long enough, as tends to be the case for last stops) and had such a friggin' blast! My CS host, Zoe, had the most amazing view of an amazing, mountain-ringed city from her 17th story flat, and she could literally just point out the tram transport systems for me. (Sarajevo's tram system is the oldest in Europe, fun fact.) I enjoyed an amazing, sweltering couple of days catching a star procession and a (stupendous!) film at the closing night of the Sarajevo Film Festival, checking out historic spots like the Franz Ferdinand assassination bridge and tons of other good stuff on a great (free!) walking tour, and taking many beer breaks from the July afternoons (and late mornings...). I lucked into the last spot on a really interesting war tour led by a guide who escaped the siege of Sarajevo as a 9-year-old. Our gal showed us through a portion of the tunnel to safety under the airport (that I flew out of the next morning). I learned that from 1993-1997 enough shells fell on Sarajevo to add up to 1 every 4 minutes for 4 YEARS. Absolutely chilling. The city is remarkably reconstructed though the country still suffers terribly from a stagnant economy. Bosnia and Hercegovina has a fascinating, heartbreaking history and a super cool modern society vibe--I'm excited to have even scratched the surface of a place that so dominated the 'bad news' profiles throughout my childhood. As far as I can tell, it's awesome. And I'll be back.

A Day in Dubrovnik

As I was heading up, I crossed paths with my Fulbright ladies Carla and Marianne on their way down the Balkans. We spent a lovely 20 hours together in a Montenegro hostel and just across the border in Dubrovnik, Croatia. It was so nice to have a couple of my favorites to hang with fording the mass of abso-obnoxo American cruise ship disembarkees. (Bleh. So not quite ready to be back in the US!) After my pals peaced I did some solo rock jumping and one more swim in the sea at a secret spot. Rounded out with a ham sandwich and a local beer in the night lit square listening to a local kids folk group. Lovely lovely.

Montenegro Mama!!

Totally unexpected and absolutely breathtaking, my 4 days in Montenegro were a lot like a vacation. Arrived by bus in Bar at 4:30 am and worked my way up the coast, dropping my pack at different bus station luggage checks and wandering or swimming in different spots. Highlights were the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, 6 am yoga by the water in Herceg Novi (as a guest of my Couchsurfing host!), and my stellar sea view balcony Couchsurfing 'couch.' Such great peeps, super hot humid days, tons 'o Slavic tourists, and fantastic memories.

Kosovo? Okay!

So as I meet more folks on my travels I'm learning more and more about the alleged sketchiness of Albania. Guess it's good I didn't register the underdevelopment, travel warning warrant, and mafia/gypsy mischief while I was actually there(?). I DID begin to suspect something was up when a 13-year-old Kosovoan girl tapped me on the shoulder and asked me to pass my passport up to the driver. I then learned that my furgon mini-bus bound for the capital, Tirana, was about to enter Kosovo. "Well heck, I've never been to Kosovo!" I thought. Since I didn't really want to backtrack through Tirana to get myself to a Montenegrin border city by nightfall, I opted to follow my new preteen gal pal off the bus in Prizren. Since I had no reference info to speak of about Kosovo and couldn't find any Internet, I only stuck around long enough to catch a bus to the capital, Prishtina. (On which I was given free Fanta!! I guess I looked stressed and real sweaty from my backpack-bedecked run to an ATM to withdraw some Kosovo currency which I heard pronounced as "arrow." Turns out they use "Euro" and I had plenty. I'm telling you, not a one Kosovo resource!) Got a bus to Montenegro from Prishtina pretty quickly, so my stay was brief. But turns out I got to the Montenegro coast more quickly by going through Kosovo than I would have if I'd stuck with my what-logically-shouldn't-have-been-but-ended-up-being-roundabout way because, well, apparently that's Albania for ya. So, pretty pics of Kosovoan countryside agriculture from bus windows, a passport stamp, and the email addresses of a nice Czech girl I met in the Prishtina bus station and my 13-year-old bus buddy (who loves Lady Gaga and Justin Timberlake just like me).

An Albanian Whirlwind

The country that originally drew me to the Balkans, Albania sure gave me the adventure I wanted! Had a night out in Tirana with a local and was lucky enough to end up in a hostel dorm with a former Albania Peace Corps gal, Casey. Tagged along on a Lake Koman ferry boat trip with her and her fiancé, Travis. (The way I attract these Peace Corps folk is just beyond me.) Photo from the canyons. Uh-mazing. You want crazy mountain drives, sketchy transportation modes called "furgons," and dirt cheap opps for seeing the most stunning mountain places? Albania's your country!! Want mafia rumors, outrageous nightlife, communist bunkers, and travel warnings, and to accidentally end up in Kosovo? Yep, Albania's got that too.

Picking Mulberries in Peristera

Despite a hazardous trip up (ankle and knee busting while getting off a bus, walking and hitch hiking for 10KM, and a bee sting in the garden upon arrival) I enjoyed a restful night and two days in the lovely village of Peristera, Greece. My Couchsurfing host Kay let me rest in her breathtaking self-designed home in the hills. She cooked me wonderful meals and we chatted about so many things among her gorgeous antique-decorated rooms. What a special spot.

Celebrating American Independence in Halkidiki!

Happy birthday, America! A swim in the sea and lounging at Freedom beach bar (for real!) in your honor!

Thessaloniki, Greece

First real Couchsurfing stint (a raging success), seaside coffees, Byzantine churches, The House of Father Turk, and food food food!!! Shout out to Despina and Andreas, my super hosts and new Greek friends. I'm taking upon myself to be the official American promoter of Northern Greece tourism!!

Edirne and Onwards West!

Bused across the Thracian region of Turkey to pay a farewell visit to the country's best mosques in Edirne. Spent the day oggling with my Antep buddies Wally and Kathleen and their famdamly. (Eski Camii is officially one of the most spectacular man-made spaces I've ever entered. W-O-W, wow. Tough not to be awe-struck.) Unfortch kept our trip to camii touring since the town's other big deal--shirtless, leather pants-wearing, olive oil slicked men wrestling each other--started the next day. Ah, our luck.

Welp, from Edirne I said goodbye to the last of my Antep FBright crew and literally walked across the border into Greece. After short delay at the border during which I kept uncharacteristically cool and convincingly helpless I cruised through without so much as a fine for exiting with an expired residency permit! Personal victory. Happy dance the whole 500 meters of no-man's-land between countries. Just me, a peacock (for real), and sunflower fields at sunset. Ro.man.tic.

Happy July! The adventure begins...

Buh-Bye June!!

Last days in the big Isty were spent seeing...
Chora Church mosaics & marble
Sultanahmet Camii (AKA the Blue Mosque. Why? IDK.)
And the ever awe-inspiring Aya Sofya (church->mosque->museum)
Getting my must-see fix! I've been living here for a year, but hey, better late than not at all, eh?