VIII / Fin

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couldn't ask for better travel buds

a full fulbright crew meet up in kaleci (plus a rando dutchman)

day 8: surprise fbright friends; oddly magical waterfalls of city runoff water (only 3 TL!); goodbye sesh with cassie at Lara Beach; frantic postcard buying (for my apartment wall project); otogar see-offs; ten hour bus ride next to a woman with an infant; a beautiful reunion brunch back in GAntep; home.

And so...

Antalya: Honestly, the views were beautiful, but the city atmosphere kinda blew. After being constantly heckled by (English speaking?!) shop owners and restaurant customer-getters on the streets, I was SO ready to get back to Antep where things are more appropriately Turkey-priced and the meals are actually quality because (a) no one ever has to tell me how delicious their food is and (b) walking vendors usually don’t tell me to, and I quote, “fuck off” when I don’t want any knockoff designer perfume with my kebap. Yep. ... If I had it to do over I’d go straight for Lara Beach, wander around smartly restored Kaleci for a bit, enjoy an alcoholic beverage in a restaurant (a rarity in Turkey and I did have a mighty fine White Russian), and get my fill of fresh orange juice in the morning. If ya ask me, equally (and usually more) spectacular scenery abides in the small coastal towns of the Lycian Peninsula where the lodging is absurdly inexpensive, the oranges are plentiful, and the rakı flows just fine.

Olimpos: We felt like the freakin’ Swiss Family Robinson. Popular, yes, but really cool to see Greekish ruins after living and traveling mostly in eastern Turkey where the Arab influence is so potent.

Chimera: Super weird. Totally wondrous.

Lykian Yolu (Lycian Way): My Turkish friends had no idea what it was, and when I managed to explain that I was going to “walk between villages” they absolutely did not understand why I would do that. In fact they sweetly tried to give me bus advice. The Lycian Way is totally a foreigner thing to to know about and to do, but it should absolutely not be devalued just because the Turks don’t dig on trekking. November was  excellent weather with no one around. Amazing. A double do.

Myra: A serious diamond in the rough--we decided to visit this baby because I recognized a photo on a tour service sign. The Santa Claus eccentricities of Demre were freaky but charming, and in a country where ancient ruins are, well, plentiful, Myra sticks out in my mind for the killer necropolis (ahbadoomcha). Just saying, if I’ve gotta be buried someplace, I’d dig (and again!) the inside of an artfully spiffed up mountainside.

Pamukkale (site): Awesome.

Pamukkale (village): Not. I'm glad we didn't stay long. It was an excellent day trip and the Pamukkale line bus ride from and back to Antalya was breathtaking (if a bit long) and equipped with a wonderful selection of tunes, music videos, and movies.

Heiropolis: An unexpectedly impressive site. Maalesef they charge out the ass for entering specific things like the hamam and the pool. Luckily it’s totally impressive without all the touristy kitsch. Highlights included the beautifully preserved theatre, “main street”, fantastic landscaping, and, of course, a stupendous view.

so great to see ya, jakey

A pretty stellar Bayram that was totally worth the early planning and researching. Loved seeing some Fbright buddies that live across the country. Met a fantastic new Jordanian-date-brining friend. Exploring new glorious outdoor scenes with one of my favorite friends was just over the top awesome.

Southwestern Turkey, you were enchanting, ama it is in the East that my heart abides...